August 6-7, Back to Germany / Leipzig

A few notes on traveling to and from Denmark:

If you’re going to Copenhagen by train, you have both German and Danish options. If you go straight north, as I did, to Aarhus, you have German trains to Flensburg and Danish after, more or less. I was told there are three trains a day, Denmark is a popular vacation area AND you must have a reserved seat on the Danish trains.

I managed to get around the reservation going up, primarily because the German trains were having mechanical problems and things were backed up horribly. But leaving…I went to the train station in Aarhus, expecting to be able to get on the direct train to Hamburg. No such luck. I was able to get a seat two hours later to Flensburg (Aarhus to Fredericia, Fredericia to Flensburg — the reverse of the trip up), with two changes of train. I should mention that I managed to have three pieces of small, but heavy, luggage.

This time the Danish train was a little late, but we still made the connection in Flensburg. In Hamburg I was able to continue on to Leipzig, and that train was on time, though it arrived at almost 8 p.m.

Because the Hotel Leipzig (formerly the Ramada) was not at the train station, I took a taxi.

An unfortunate sign was hanging in the building that housed the hotel (on the 7th and 8th floors). It’s dog food that’s supposed to be healthy for your pet:

An unfortunate sign advertising healthy dog food

An unfortunate sign advertising healthy dog food

The next day, armed with a small city map, I hoofed it to the train station – or almost – and found a city tour. Sixteen euros, 2 hours, and windows I couldn’t take much in the way of pictures through. It was useful for orientation, however.

Leipzig was a center of music and publishing as well as the fur trade and a giant trade fair in the good old days, a part of East Germany in the less-good old days. Wagner was born here, Bach is buried here. Among the better known musicians and writers who passed through: Mahler, Schiller, Goethe, Robert Schumann, and more recently Erich Kästner.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus front

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus front, just down the street from the hotel.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus side with an architectural add-on that I found interesting.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus side with an architectural add-on that I found interesting.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus - side door

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus – side door

A year or so ago, I was watching a TV series, Tierärztin Dr. Mertens, (Veterinarian Dr. Mertens), about a female vet at the Leipzig Zoo. I’m not particularly interested in zoos, but I was hooked on the series — and very upset when ARD decided it couldn’t be shown out of Germany and blocked it on my computer. At any rate, I spent almost four hours at the zoo — lost half the time because I was following signs and not the map. Because of the heat, most of the spaces were empty / occupied by hidden critters.TV

It’s a really interesting place, where many animals are separated by water and low fences from the people. I asked a zoo employee if the zoo had problems with people climbing into the enclosures. She said not so far, that Germans are careful about their children.

After that I walked back to the main train station, looked around the many stores. The train station has about three levels — one for the trains and two for shops. It looks fairly new in that it’s clean. It claims about 140 shops and eateries on two levels — including McDonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Burger King and Dunkin Donuts.

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August 5, Ebeltoft and around Aarhus

After a quick (and expensive) breakfast at the hotel, I took myself to the bus station to catch Bus 123 to Ebeltoft. The clerk at the hotel the previous evening gave me a map and showed me where the station was. For 160 dkk (just under $25) round trip, I take off. The bus driver, not the youngest, understands me and speaks limited English.

Once in Ebeltoft, it’s a bit of a hike to the Glasmuseet. I’m there a few minutes early — it’s been so hot up to now. Today it’s rather cold and windy, a drop from the 90s to around 70 with a windchill factor. And I sent my down jacket home…Draw

The museum is pretty nice. The young woman at the reception desk speaks a few words of English. The exhibit has a flyer in Danish, in German and in English, so I’m OK on that. I wander through, taking lots of photos. The exhibit is modern Scandinavian glass artists, mostly glass blowers. It’s an interesting exhibit, including a short film by one and several light and sound pieces. On the top floor is more educational info and things for children to do with glass.

Outside is a separate building where the glass blowers work. Today a young man and woman are the team — it turns out they’re French. The man spent time at Cerfav in Vannes-le-Chatel (where I was in 2015 to visit) and worked at Baccarat (where Jacqueline took me two weeks ago). Small world. I talked to him in a break, but he wasn’t too impressed.

The good thing here is that people were coming to the museum. Several had quite young children (as in high chairs necessary), but at least they’re out and visiting (in Claret, Jacqueline and I were the only people in the museum; in Carmaux I was joined by a family with three children).

The museum has a little restaurant, very modern and nice. The menu was in Danish and Danish, so I told the young waitress that I was a vegetarian, no fish or meat. She pointed me to a potato and cheese dish that she said was typically Danish (as were all the dishes on the menu). I could pick out words here and there from German — in this case Kartoffel… I just wasn’t sure what went with the potatoes.

Lunch at the Glass Museum in Ebeltoft

Lunch at the Glass Museum in Ebeltoft

It started as a slice of bread, covered with sliced boiled potatoes and a soft cheese, with radishes, tomatoes, carrots, onions, a couple of asparagus spears and lots of various greens. It was quite good — just a surprise.

I had been there for about three hours and that was enough, so I set out to find the bus stop. I decided to take a different route and see if I could manage not to get too lost. In the process, I found the heart of Ebeltoft, which is quite old and quite picturesque.

A lot of little cafes were open, along with a fair number of stores. I didn’t see a lot of glass, though what I did see seemed to be a lot of the same artists as the museum gift shop offered.

Eventually, I did find the bus stop, no thanks to my phone, which was going to send me to Thailand (I asked for Bus 123 stops…apparently that’s a big deal there).

On the way back, a whole group of teenagers — maybe 25 — got on the bus with their camping backpacks. It was full, full, full.

Back in Aarhus, I wandered back to the hotel, noticing a giant church (the Aarhus Cathedral) in the area. After dropping my stuff, I set out to look around. I could not have picked a better location for a hotel. It’s around the corner from the Aarhus Theater, close to the pedestrian shopping area, around the corner from 7-11, McDonalds and Starbucks (my grande latte here would cost about $7.50, instead of $4.80). I wandered through Magazin, a large, upscale department store that’s open every day from 10 to 8 (10 to 20). Depressing to see how much clothes cost… These included Hugo Boss, DKNY, Tommy Hilfiger and a few other brands I’ve heard of and several that were unfamiliar.

Just a note: I keep hearing that everyone in Europe speaks English, especially the young people. I have not found that to be the case. I did get a brownie and a roll at a bakery in the  department store, and the young guy there did quite well. Otherwise, it seems that in out-of-the-way places like Ebeltoft, English is less common, though I did hear quite a bit from visitors.

Tomorrow it’s back to Germany and a few days in Leipzig.

more photos to come

August 3, Hamburg

My goal is Ebeltoft, Denmark, and the glass museum there. Looking at a map, I realized that this would be better reached via Hamburg / Aarhus and bus to Ebeltoft rather than via Copenhagen. I’ve never been to Hamburg, so this is my chance.

I picked the train that left at 11:24 and had no changes between Stuttgart and Hamburg. Thank goodness! We had to take the tram from Bad Cannstadt into Stuttgart, as opposed to my getting on the train at Plüderhausen, because there was a problem with the track between there and Stuttgart. Several of the trains in all directions were cancelled. Fortunately, the train was an ICE, which requires a reservation, so I had a place to sit. People were standing in the corridors throughout, because of the cancellations. One young woman came in our compartment (my reservation was for a seat in a compartment rather than in the regular area). She was trying to get to Bonn, but her train had been cancelled. She got out at Frankfurt airport — hope she got home, because she was due to leave the next day for London with her husband.

We had several delays along the way, with trains running in both directions on one track and a locomotive that had mechanical problems.

Anyway, the train was fairly comfortable to almost cold. When we finally arrived in Hamburg about half an hour late, the train station was packed with people. I was ready to go elsewhere…but I’d made a reservation and paid for the hotel.

The hotel, Boutique Hotel 056, was supposed to be right across from the train station. It was — but the sign was not obvious and I took a small tour of Hamburg before I arrived. Amazing that people have no idea what’s in their own city three blocks away…. The hotel is nice — but has no elevator and a long stairway up. I was hot, tired and in a rotten mood when I arrived. The clerk picked up on that right away and upgraded my room. It’s bigger, which doesn’t really matter, except that many rooms are so tight you can hardly fit yourself and luggage in. Anyway, it’s nice.

Wandering around, I found a parade, Lesben gegen Rechts — I guess that means lesbians against the rightwingers and not against rights…. I would say there were at least a hundred marchers, if not more.

"Lesbians against Rights" march

“Lesbians against Rights” march

Marchers protesting the Right

Marchers protesting the Right

Tomorrow I plan to take a city tour, then go on to Aarhus, where I’ll spend two nights.

 

August 4, 2018, Getting to Aarhus

Because this is probably the only time I’ll get to Hamburg, I decided to take a city tour quickly. Of course, the hotel’s checkout time is 11, and the 1.5-hour tour starts at 9:30. This means I have to check out and schlepp my bags downstairs to the reception. The woman at the desk is less than friendly and helpful.

The tour– on a blue bus–takes us through the upscale homes along the water. There are some really wonderful old mansions. Unfortunately, shooting through the window is pretty hopeless.

We make a couple of longer (5 minutes or so) stops to pick up new passengers, one by the Rathaus and one by the harbor. If I were going to be here longer, I’d take the harbor tour, especially since it’s discounted with this ticket.

Then it’s back to the train station, where we began. Now I know where Karstadt is, so I dash back to take a look at the department store. The tour guide mentioned that there’s a parade that will start anywhere from noon to 2 p.m. I see lots and lots of rainbow flags and people, mostly young, headed out. I hope to miss it, but the Hamburg train station seems always to be crowded.

I had hoped to get the nonstop train from Hamburg to Aarhus, but it requires a seat reservation and it’s fully booked. The train person suggests I just go on the next train, leaving at 12:48,  with a change in Flensburg and see if I can’t just get on.

I grab a cheese sandwich and a bottle of water at one of the quickie places (next to the Dunkin’ Donuts) and wolf them down before I get on the train.

Lots of luck. I end up sitting with a couple of young guys who turn out to be Gymnasium (late high school) students from Berlin on their way to some area far north in Denmark. Our paths coincide to a certain extent, so I “attach” myself to them.

In Hamburg, we left about 20 minutes late. We had 6 minutes to change in Flensburg. Of course, the Danish train didn’t wait, so we’re left for a couple of hours. We chat with a woman and her 6-year-old daughter, also stuck.

At the Flensburg train station

At the Flensburg train station

Since it’s Saturday, the train station employees only work till 3 p.m. and then they’re gone. The little food place — pizza, ice cream, Wurst — is open but it’s pretty clear the two who work there wish it weren’t. The women’s restroom is out of soap and toilet paper — and probably was hours earlier. Dinner for me is an ice cream bar and two cups of coffee.

A train finally comes, about 100 people try to pack on. The employees on the train get quite frustrated and tell us all to leave, because it’s already pretty full. The woman with her daughter doesn’t, so I guess she made it.

The rest of us were told that a bus had arrived and would take us. However, by the time we got to the bus, it was also overly full, so it was back to the track area to wait another couple of hours for the next train. At least, when it came, it was empty, so we all had a seat. A Dutch woman started talking to me, and it turned out we were on the next train (from Fredericia) together. She got out one stop before Aarhus. The two teenagers had a different connection in Fredericia.

Fredericia apartments or condos

Fredericia apartments or condos

I finally got to Aarhus about 10 p.m. I had no Danish money and no Danish language. I was able to get a taxi –the nice driver was originally from Lebanon and spoke English. He also took credit cards, so I got to the CabINN hotel without problem. If my luggage had been lighter, I would have walked — except I also noted that the GPS in my phone is often confusing.

The young guy on the reception desk was quite helpful about pointing me to an ATM machine, etc. The room is pretty minimal — bunk beds (I only need one) and the tiniest bathroom ever — with shower, toilet and wash basin in about a 5-foot space.

Hotel room in Aarhus

Hotel room in Aarhus

It works, but I wouldn’t want it in my house. The hotel seems to be quite quiet, although I’m on the top floor at the very farthest end. I don’t hear doors slams, etc., so I guess it’s a solidly built building.

Aarhus, according to my travel guide for Denmark, is the country’s second largest city.

 

August 1-2, Stuttgart

Wednesday Sylvie had to work. I went with her into Stuttgart — she went to the Planetarium, I went shopping. But first she took me to a crafts store so I could get some pierced earring backs. It was a neat store — I spent about an hour, checking out everything. I found some purple ribbon in different shades than I get at home and a butterfly shape to use for designs.

On the way I saw Kaufhof. My daughter asked me to get some Schulmappen for the kids — those are cases that contain all the pencils, markers, pencil sharpener, etc. I also got a box and some tape. Wandering around, I found a post office where I could buy a couple more boxes and a drug store to get some of my favorite Saptil stain remover in a tube. I wandered around the castle area…

Schloss (castle) in Stuttgart

Schloss (castle) in Stuttgart

Tents around the square by the Schloss, apparently for an event

Funky building with panels that look like crinkled aluminum foil

Funky building with panels that look like crinkled aluminum foil

Then it was back to meet Sylvie to go home. The planetarium used to be in the middle of a park with lots of trees. Then came “Bahnhof 21”, the train station that will probably be finished in 2100… The trees were chopped and replaced by this…

Construction area by the train station

Construction area by the train station

Construction of the new train station

Construction of the new train station

 

The planetarium is now behind a fence and not so easy to reach as it used to be.

The planetarium is now behind a fence and not so easy to reach as it used to be. 

In the evening, I put the boxes together and filled them up — two to my daughter and two to myself in care of a friend. My luggage was way too heavy — I had my down jacket and lots of socks, expecting to find some cool weather. Since it’s anything but, I decided to send the things home instead of dragging them around. I also had gotten some documentation at Claret and Carmaux and, of course, Jacqueline gave me some things.

Thursday I read while Sylvie went swimming in a local lake. Then she took me to a post office in a local store, where I spent a small fortune sending packages. After that, we went to visit her 90-year-old mother. We took her out to lunch — mom kept saying she wasn’t very hungry and was tired. However, at the restaurant she scarfed down her senior lunch and part of Sylvie’s as well. It was a really nice covered patio. Sylvie and I had spaghetti with a nice tomato and vegetable sauce, mom had a smaller portion of a local specialty with meat patties.

Interesting colored glass windows at Sylvie's mom's house

Interesting colored glass windows at Sylvie’s mom’s house

We went back to Sylvie’s mom’s. Sylvie goes a couple of times a week to help clean there. Then we stopped at a friend of hers who was celebrating her birthday. Michaela is an artist working with clay who restores old porcelain ovens, among other items. She’s also working with some Syrian refugees. One family arrived while we were still there: dad, who’s got a German driver’s license despite not being able to read and who works taking care of parks; mom, an attractive young woman in a head scarf who speaks rather good German and who will start training as a dental assistant in September; and a cute daughter without front teeth, so I’m guessing she’s six or so. They represent a success story for refugees — able to fit in pretty well.

Then it was back to Sylvie’s and packing to leave in the morning.

View from the balcony at Plüderhausen

View from the balcony at Plüderhausen

Morning glory vine working its way up to the balcony at Plüderhausen

Morning glory vine working its way up to the balcony at Plüderhausen

July 30-31, Massif central to Nancy, then to Stuttgart

Monday we continued on to Nancy.

Field of sunflowers

Field of sunflowers

Tuesday I was off to Stuttgart, via Strasbourg. The French train worked well, the German one not so much.

The train from Strasbourg to Stuttgart arrived late. I went immediately downstairs in the train station to get a ticket / pass for the rest of my stay. I ended up with a Eurail Pass good for two countries (Germany, Denmark) for 10 travel days over a two-month period. This was just one euro more than a German Rail pass, good for 10 travel days in a one-month period.

After I got the ticket, I needed to go back upstairs to the trains. The escalator down worked. The escalator up did not, and there is no elevator. So, I dragged my bags up the very long flight of stairs in two trips. On the second trip a man came up behind and grabbed my bag and carried it up for me.

The train center also sold me a ticket to Plüderhausen, outside Stuttgart, where my friend Sylvie lives. I was given two trains to get there. When I got upstairs to the track, the first train was cancelled. I went to the second, a couple of tracks over. What I failed to notice was that it wasn’t the same train. It had the same end town, Aalen, but not the same stops.

The train left late — and then whizzed right by Plüderhausen. Poor Sylvie — she hopped in her car and rushed to Schwäbisch Gmund, the next stop and some miles / kilometers on down the road, and picked me up.  Meantime, it was over 90 degrees everywhere with no air conditioning and a fair amount of humidity.

July 29, Albi, Carmaux

After getting the apartment closed up, we set out for Albi. Passing through one town, we found a giant detour. Trying to get back on track, we stumbled on a small parade celebrating the wine harvest.

Then it was on to Albi, a little north of Toulouse in southwest France. Many of the buildings are made of bricks, including the cathedral, which is one of the largest buildings I’ve ever seen. The cathedral, in its size, is absolutely breath-taking.

After Albi, Jacqueline took me to Blaye l. mines, where her husband grew up. We just passed through the village when we found the glass museum of Carmaux.

The exhibit at Carmaux, Aujourd’hui et Demain (Today and Tomorrow) brings together 70 young designers and artisans who are French or have studied in France. I found out about the museum because I’m on the email list of Jeremy Maxwell Wintrebert, a glass blower who has a piece in the show:

Jeremy Maxwell Wintrebert, Cloud (blown glass)

Jeremy Maxwell Wintrebert, Cloud (blown glass)

The Glass Museum at Carmaux

The Glass Museum at Carmaux

Simon Muller, Sans titre

Simon Muller, Sans titre

more photos coming

July 28, Cap d’Agde

Saturday was a “down” day — we went to the local market. We each bought a dress — mine turned out to be quite transparent. I had tried it on over my clothes — and missed that minor detail. We found some other unusual stuff to look at and spend money on.

Clay mural inside the entrance of Jacqueline's apartment house

Clay mural inside the entrance of Jacqueline’s apartment house

 

 

July 27, 2018 – Halle de Verre, Claret, and more

We set out by the port of Sète, where we saw huge ships that apparently run between France and Morocco. Outside Sète is a huge saltwater “pond” (I would be more inclined to call it a marsh) that seems to have some low-growing vegetation.

The goal of my trip to France is to visit two glass museums, one in Claret, north of Montpellier, and one at Carmaux, north of Toulouse and Albi. Today is Claret, reached by some very back roads, but now I’ve seen a lot of the south of France.

The idea is to write an article about some of the glass museums for a Tucson publication, including “professional” photos. We’ll see. We arrived at Claret about 10:45. This gives us a little over an hour and a half before the museum has a two-hour lunch break.

Halle de Verre, Claret

Halle de Verre, Claret

After the Deutsches Museum für Modernes Glas in Rödental, Germany, plus some other U.S. museums, this is a let-down. I found it online, so I wanted to check it out. If Jacqueline hadn’t driven me, I would have been all day getting there — train to Montpellier, tram to somewhere, then bus to Claret, where I’m not sure there was even a hotel.

The museum is on two floors. We had a reduced admission because they were doing some kind of work. On the first floor there’s a very complete history of glass, along with reproductions of some of the old pieces, and information about modern glass techniques. These are explained through some short videos, all in French (of course — we’re in France…). There’s also a very nice gift shop, with local / French artists.

Piece in the current exhibit

Piece in the current exhibit

Upstairs is the current exhibit, which is made up of French glass artists, many of whom are connected to large educational facilities. This includes one at Vannes-le-Chatel, which Jacqueline and I visited a couple of years ago.

After Claret we stopped at the Abbaye of Vermagne, a vineyard to buy some wine, then the town of Marseillan, where we bought more wine, looked around and I had a cup of coffee. Then it was back to the Cap.

The Abbaye of Vermagne was pretty interesting.

Abbaye de Valmagne, built in 1139

Abbaye de Valmagne, built in 1139

I’m not “into” churches — this one is huge. The property is full of trees, so it’s much cooler than many other places.

Church at Valmagne, Jacqueline is front left

Church at Valmagne, Jacqueline is front left

Wine barrels in the church at Abbaye de Valmagne

Wine barrels in the church at Abbaye de Valmagne

The church has huge barrels for wine — it’s in private hands and has been for some 7 generations. It produces a regional wine, though we didn’t buy any. It dates from 1139. Its claim to fame was that one of the heads of the abbey decided, around 1575, that he wasn’t going to be a Catholic anymore, so he led a group to slaughter all the monks and the 80-year-old man who took care of the wine in those days. The abbey was pretty much destroyed. A modern piece of stained glass was made from fragments and two new stained glass windows have been created.

Small stained glass window created from fragments of an old window

Small stained glass window created from fragments of an old window

Stained glass window at Valmagne, one of two remaining

Stained glass window at Valmagne, one of two remaining

Detail from one of the existing stained glass windows at Valmagne

Detail from one of the existing stained glass windows at Valmagne

Second stained glass window at Valmagne

Second stained glass window at Valmagne

Fountain under grape arbor at Valmagne

Fountain under grape arbor in courtyard at Valmagne

Shaded road, this near the abbey, but we passed by many like this

Shaded road, this near the abbey, but we passed by many like this

We went to La Madeleine winery in Marseillan (my granddaughter is also Madeleine). It’s a picturesque little town, as are all the towns in the area, with narrow streets.

Then it was back to Cap d’Agde. I was disappointed not to see any flamingos after Jacqueline told me that they were in the pond between Marseillan and Sète.

After dinner (never before 8 p.m.), we took a long walk around part of Cap d’Agde. There was to be an eclipse of the moon, but the sky was covered in fog, so we didn’t see anything.

more photos to come

July 25-26, 2018, Nancy to Cap d’Agde

A cousin of Jacqueline’s died just before I arrived. The funeral was Wed. afternoon. When she returned, we packed the car and took off for another cousin’s, to spend the night. Francine lives in a large, old (from 1830, if I understood correctly) house. Her previous place, the Chateau d’Orquevaux, was sold to an American artist who plans to use it for artist residencies (chateauorquevaux.com). I checked the prices for staying there — no one I know could — or would — spend the money.

At any rate, we took a walk and visited the chateau, which is hosting a group of painters led by Jennifer Taylor… not a relative. She said she’s invited every year to show at the Mountain Oyster Club in Tucson, which seems to be a big deal (I’ve not been invited, so I don’t know). Small world! I talked to several of the women who were interested in my jewelry.

The chateau, through the trees from below. An oops -- I was so enthralled with it all, I forgot to take photos.

The chateau, through the trees from below. An oops — I was so enthralled with it all, I forgot to take photos.

After our walk up the hill, we returned to Francine’s for a before-dinner apéritif followed by a delicious spaghetti dinner. Jacqueline had let them know I’m a vegetarian, and that’s what they — Francine and friend — came up with, which was great for me. Not sure about for them…. At any rate, the house, for want of a better word, was itself a museum, with wonderful glass pieces and artwork. Francine and her friend were quite welcoming. Unfortunately, I didn’t understand all of the conversation.

The next day we took off to go to Cap d’Agde, on the Mediterranean. Jacqueline’s family has an apartment there, and we’ll visit a couple of glass museums from there. It took us until after 7 p.m. to get there, after making a few stops at “aires”, rest areas.

Giant sundial at a rest stop - a public art sculpture

Giant sundial at a rest stop – a public art sculpture

Using her TomTom (GPS), I now know that the roundabouts are “rondpoints” and the driver is directed to the first through up to the fifth exit (sortie). Looking at the temperature the car tells us, it’s well over 100 degrees. My phone says it’s only 83 in Tucson… I was expecting cooler, not hotter weather.

One of the roundabouts had only cacti, one of which looked very much like a saguaro (these are native supposedly only to the Sonoran desert).  Cacti seem to be a popular motif for clothes and decorator objects.

We got to the Cap — Jacqueline has the smallest parking space ever in a garage that she has to back into. I’m soooo glad she’s driving and not me!