August 6-7, Back to Germany / Leipzig

A few notes on traveling to and from Denmark:

If you’re going to Copenhagen by train, you have both German and Danish options. If you go straight north, as I did, to Aarhus, you have German trains to Flensburg and Danish after, more or less. I was told there are three trains a day, Denmark is a popular vacation area AND you must have a reserved seat on the Danish trains.

I managed to get around the reservation going up, primarily because the German trains were having mechanical problems and things were backed up horribly. But leaving…I went to the train station in Aarhus, expecting to be able to get on the direct train to Hamburg. No such luck. I was able to get a seat two hours later to Flensburg (Aarhus to Fredericia, Fredericia to Flensburg — the reverse of the trip up), with two changes of train. I should mention that I managed to have three pieces of small, but heavy, luggage.

This time the Danish train was a little late, but we still made the connection in Flensburg. In Hamburg I was able to continue on to Leipzig, and that train was on time, though it arrived at almost 8 p.m.

Because the Hotel Leipzig (formerly the Ramada) was not at the train station, I took a taxi.

An unfortunate sign was hanging in the building that housed the hotel (on the 7th and 8th floors). It’s dog food that’s supposed to be healthy for your pet:

An unfortunate sign advertising healthy dog food

An unfortunate sign advertising healthy dog food

The next day, armed with a small city map, I hoofed it to the train station – or almost – and found a city tour. Sixteen euros, 2 hours, and windows I couldn’t take much in the way of pictures through. It was useful for orientation, however.

Leipzig was a center of music and publishing as well as the fur trade and a giant trade fair in the good old days, a part of East Germany in the less-good old days. Wagner was born here, Bach is buried here. Among the better known musicians and writers who passed through: Mahler, Schiller, Goethe, Robert Schumann, and more recently Erich Kästner.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus front

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus front, just down the street from the hotel.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus side with an architectural add-on that I found interesting.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus side with an architectural add-on that I found interesting.

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus - side door

Deutsches Buchgewerbehaus – side door

A year or so ago, I was watching a TV series, Tierärztin Dr. Mertens, (Veterinarian Dr. Mertens), about a female vet at the Leipzig Zoo. I’m not particularly interested in zoos, but I was hooked on the series — and very upset when ARD decided it couldn’t be shown out of Germany and blocked it on my computer. At any rate, I spent almost four hours at the zoo — lost half the time because I was following signs and not the map. Because of the heat, most of the spaces were empty / occupied by hidden critters.TV

It’s a really interesting place, where many animals are separated by water and low fences from the people. I asked a zoo employee if the zoo had problems with people climbing into the enclosures. She said not so far, that Germans are careful about their children.

After that I walked back to the main train station, looked around the many stores. The train station has about three levels — one for the trains and two for shops. It looks fairly new in that it’s clean. It claims about 140 shops and eateries on two levels — including McDonalds, Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Burger King and Dunkin Donuts.

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August 3, Hamburg

My goal is Ebeltoft, Denmark, and the glass museum there. Looking at a map, I realized that this would be better reached via Hamburg / Aarhus and bus to Ebeltoft rather than via Copenhagen. I’ve never been to Hamburg, so this is my chance.

I picked the train that left at 11:24 and had no changes between Stuttgart and Hamburg. Thank goodness! We had to take the tram from Bad Cannstadt into Stuttgart, as opposed to my getting on the train at Plüderhausen, because there was a problem with the track between there and Stuttgart. Several of the trains in all directions were cancelled. Fortunately, the train was an ICE, which requires a reservation, so I had a place to sit. People were standing in the corridors throughout, because of the cancellations. One young woman came in our compartment (my reservation was for a seat in a compartment rather than in the regular area). She was trying to get to Bonn, but her train had been cancelled. She got out at Frankfurt airport — hope she got home, because she was due to leave the next day for London with her husband.

We had several delays along the way, with trains running in both directions on one track and a locomotive that had mechanical problems.

Anyway, the train was fairly comfortable to almost cold. When we finally arrived in Hamburg about half an hour late, the train station was packed with people. I was ready to go elsewhere…but I’d made a reservation and paid for the hotel.

The hotel, Boutique Hotel 056, was supposed to be right across from the train station. It was — but the sign was not obvious and I took a small tour of Hamburg before I arrived. Amazing that people have no idea what’s in their own city three blocks away…. The hotel is nice — but has no elevator and a long stairway up. I was hot, tired and in a rotten mood when I arrived. The clerk picked up on that right away and upgraded my room. It’s bigger, which doesn’t really matter, except that many rooms are so tight you can hardly fit yourself and luggage in. Anyway, it’s nice.

Wandering around, I found a parade, Lesben gegen Rechts — I guess that means lesbians against the rightwingers and not against rights…. I would say there were at least a hundred marchers, if not more.

"Lesbians against Rights" march

“Lesbians against Rights” march

Marchers protesting the Right

Marchers protesting the Right

Tomorrow I plan to take a city tour, then go on to Aarhus, where I’ll spend two nights.

 

August 4, 2018, Getting to Aarhus

Because this is probably the only time I’ll get to Hamburg, I decided to take a city tour quickly. Of course, the hotel’s checkout time is 11, and the 1.5-hour tour starts at 9:30. This means I have to check out and schlepp my bags downstairs to the reception. The woman at the desk is less than friendly and helpful.

The tour– on a blue bus–takes us through the upscale homes along the water. There are some really wonderful old mansions. Unfortunately, shooting through the window is pretty hopeless.

We make a couple of longer (5 minutes or so) stops to pick up new passengers, one by the Rathaus and one by the harbor. If I were going to be here longer, I’d take the harbor tour, especially since it’s discounted with this ticket.

Then it’s back to the train station, where we began. Now I know where Karstadt is, so I dash back to take a look at the department store. The tour guide mentioned that there’s a parade that will start anywhere from noon to 2 p.m. I see lots and lots of rainbow flags and people, mostly young, headed out. I hope to miss it, but the Hamburg train station seems always to be crowded.

I had hoped to get the nonstop train from Hamburg to Aarhus, but it requires a seat reservation and it’s fully booked. The train person suggests I just go on the next train, leaving at 12:48,  with a change in Flensburg and see if I can’t just get on.

I grab a cheese sandwich and a bottle of water at one of the quickie places (next to the Dunkin’ Donuts) and wolf them down before I get on the train.

Lots of luck. I end up sitting with a couple of young guys who turn out to be Gymnasium (late high school) students from Berlin on their way to some area far north in Denmark. Our paths coincide to a certain extent, so I “attach” myself to them.

In Hamburg, we left about 20 minutes late. We had 6 minutes to change in Flensburg. Of course, the Danish train didn’t wait, so we’re left for a couple of hours. We chat with a woman and her 6-year-old daughter, also stuck.

At the Flensburg train station

At the Flensburg train station

Since it’s Saturday, the train station employees only work till 3 p.m. and then they’re gone. The little food place — pizza, ice cream, Wurst — is open but it’s pretty clear the two who work there wish it weren’t. The women’s restroom is out of soap and toilet paper — and probably was hours earlier. Dinner for me is an ice cream bar and two cups of coffee.

A train finally comes, about 100 people try to pack on. The employees on the train get quite frustrated and tell us all to leave, because it’s already pretty full. The woman with her daughter doesn’t, so I guess she made it.

The rest of us were told that a bus had arrived and would take us. However, by the time we got to the bus, it was also overly full, so it was back to the track area to wait another couple of hours for the next train. At least, when it came, it was empty, so we all had a seat. A Dutch woman started talking to me, and it turned out we were on the next train (from Fredericia) together. She got out one stop before Aarhus. The two teenagers had a different connection in Fredericia.

Fredericia apartments or condos

Fredericia apartments or condos

I finally got to Aarhus about 10 p.m. I had no Danish money and no Danish language. I was able to get a taxi –the nice driver was originally from Lebanon and spoke English. He also took credit cards, so I got to the CabINN hotel without problem. If my luggage had been lighter, I would have walked — except I also noted that the GPS in my phone is often confusing.

The young guy on the reception desk was quite helpful about pointing me to an ATM machine, etc. The room is pretty minimal — bunk beds (I only need one) and the tiniest bathroom ever — with shower, toilet and wash basin in about a 5-foot space.

Hotel room in Aarhus

Hotel room in Aarhus

It works, but I wouldn’t want it in my house. The hotel seems to be quite quiet, although I’m on the top floor at the very farthest end. I don’t hear doors slams, etc., so I guess it’s a solidly built building.

Aarhus, according to my travel guide for Denmark, is the country’s second largest city.

 

August 1-2, Stuttgart

Wednesday Sylvie had to work. I went with her into Stuttgart — she went to the Planetarium, I went shopping. But first she took me to a crafts store so I could get some pierced earring backs. It was a neat store — I spent about an hour, checking out everything. I found some purple ribbon in different shades than I get at home and a butterfly shape to use for designs.

On the way I saw Kaufhof. My daughter asked me to get some Schulmappen for the kids — those are cases that contain all the pencils, markers, pencil sharpener, etc. I also got a box and some tape. Wandering around, I found a post office where I could buy a couple more boxes and a drug store to get some of my favorite Saptil stain remover in a tube. I wandered around the castle area…

Schloss (castle) in Stuttgart

Schloss (castle) in Stuttgart

Tents around the square by the Schloss, apparently for an event

Funky building with panels that look like crinkled aluminum foil

Funky building with panels that look like crinkled aluminum foil

Then it was back to meet Sylvie to go home. The planetarium used to be in the middle of a park with lots of trees. Then came “Bahnhof 21”, the train station that will probably be finished in 2100… The trees were chopped and replaced by this…

Construction area by the train station

Construction area by the train station

Construction of the new train station

Construction of the new train station

 

The planetarium is now behind a fence and not so easy to reach as it used to be.

The planetarium is now behind a fence and not so easy to reach as it used to be. 

In the evening, I put the boxes together and filled them up — two to my daughter and two to myself in care of a friend. My luggage was way too heavy — I had my down jacket and lots of socks, expecting to find some cool weather. Since it’s anything but, I decided to send the things home instead of dragging them around. I also had gotten some documentation at Claret and Carmaux and, of course, Jacqueline gave me some things.

Thursday I read while Sylvie went swimming in a local lake. Then she took me to a post office in a local store, where I spent a small fortune sending packages. After that, we went to visit her 90-year-old mother. We took her out to lunch — mom kept saying she wasn’t very hungry and was tired. However, at the restaurant she scarfed down her senior lunch and part of Sylvie’s as well. It was a really nice covered patio. Sylvie and I had spaghetti with a nice tomato and vegetable sauce, mom had a smaller portion of a local specialty with meat patties.

Interesting colored glass windows at Sylvie's mom's house

Interesting colored glass windows at Sylvie’s mom’s house

We went back to Sylvie’s mom’s. Sylvie goes a couple of times a week to help clean there. Then we stopped at a friend of hers who was celebrating her birthday. Michaela is an artist working with clay who restores old porcelain ovens, among other items. She’s also working with some Syrian refugees. One family arrived while we were still there: dad, who’s got a German driver’s license despite not being able to read and who works taking care of parks; mom, an attractive young woman in a head scarf who speaks rather good German and who will start training as a dental assistant in September; and a cute daughter without front teeth, so I’m guessing she’s six or so. They represent a success story for refugees — able to fit in pretty well.

Then it was back to Sylvie’s and packing to leave in the morning.

View from the balcony at Plüderhausen

View from the balcony at Plüderhausen

Morning glory vine working its way up to the balcony at Plüderhausen

Morning glory vine working its way up to the balcony at Plüderhausen

July 30-31, Massif central to Nancy, then to Stuttgart

Monday we continued on to Nancy.

Field of sunflowers

Field of sunflowers

Tuesday I was off to Stuttgart, via Strasbourg. The French train worked well, the German one not so much.

The train from Strasbourg to Stuttgart arrived late. I went immediately downstairs in the train station to get a ticket / pass for the rest of my stay. I ended up with a Eurail Pass good for two countries (Germany, Denmark) for 10 travel days over a two-month period. This was just one euro more than a German Rail pass, good for 10 travel days in a one-month period.

After I got the ticket, I needed to go back upstairs to the trains. The escalator down worked. The escalator up did not, and there is no elevator. So, I dragged my bags up the very long flight of stairs in two trips. On the second trip a man came up behind and grabbed my bag and carried it up for me.

The train center also sold me a ticket to Plüderhausen, outside Stuttgart, where my friend Sylvie lives. I was given two trains to get there. When I got upstairs to the track, the first train was cancelled. I went to the second, a couple of tracks over. What I failed to notice was that it wasn’t the same train. It had the same end town, Aalen, but not the same stops.

The train left late — and then whizzed right by Plüderhausen. Poor Sylvie — she hopped in her car and rushed to Schwäbisch Gmund, the next stop and some miles / kilometers on down the road, and picked me up.  Meantime, it was over 90 degrees everywhere with no air conditioning and a fair amount of humidity.

Plüderhausen, October 18, 2015

A slow day, with a second breakfast by friends of Sylvie’s whom I’d met before. Then back to Sylvie’s.

Tomorrow I’m off to Lucerne / Luzern, Switzerland.

Kochel am See, Germany, October 16-17, 2015

My very first trip to Europe / Germany was to Kochel am See to a Goethe-Institut to learn to speak German (to go with the degree I had in the language). Friday morning Sylvia and I set out for the four-hour drive. Kochel, a vacation town for Germans, is southwest of Munich. The weather was cold and overcast.

On the way, we had coffee and, to me, a very good apple cake at a bakery in Rosshaupten, where we also got some better directions. Sylvie had a GPS, but it was an older model and not too up to date.

Bakery window in Rosshaupten

Bakery window in Rosshaupten – Halloween comes to Germany!

In Kochel we had a reservation at Hotel Waltraud Garni. Sylvie took her bike for a ride, while I walked around town for a while, taking photos of some of the places I remembered.

Hotel Alpenhof Postillion, Kochel am See

Hotel Alpenhof Postillion, Kochel am See

 

Gasthof zur Post, Kochel am See -- we had many meals here when I was in Kochel the first time

Gasthof zur Post, Kochel am See — we had many meals here when I was in Kochel the first time

Home of a construction company and the owner, Kochel am See -- I couldn't resist the wonderful painted wall

Home of a construction company and the owner, Kochel am See — I couldn’t resist the wonderful painted wall

Close up of a painted house, Kochel am See -- typical of Bavaria

Close up of a painted house, Kochel am See — typical of Bavaria

Across the water, Kochel Lake

Across the water, Kochelsee (Kochel Lake)

Dinner was pizza at La Pineta, where we had a chance to practice our Italian.

Saturday morning we had a huge buffet breakfast — I had forgotten about the good German breakfasts, since the hotel in Coburg did not include it. Sylvie called her sister in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, which is not far from Kochel. She and her family were on their way to Penzberg to look at furniture, so we set off to meet them. The store had some really nice pieces at good prices, sort of a German version of Ikea. We sat with them while they had lunch, then headed back to Kochel.

Sylvie was very persistent about finding the house I had lived in, which we finally did. Then it was around the corner to the Franz Marc Museum. Marc was one of the “Blaue Reiter”. The museum had several exhibits, with work by Paul Klee, Willi Baumeister and other contemporaries. The museum, new since I was there, is quite nice, but requires a steep uphill climb to reach.

Franz Marc Museum, in Kochel am See

Franz Marc Museum, in Kochel am See. The hill was quite steep.

Then it was a stop in Benediktbeuern, a large abbey that seems to be a conference center.

Abbey at Benediktbeuern

Abbey at Benediktbeuern

The buildings were painted in two colors, as many of the Bavarian buildings are. The abbey is huge, with a large church and graveyard, as well. We wandered through one of the buildings, which had an interesting calligraphy exhibit.

One of the buildings of the abbey at Benediktbeuern

One of the buildings of the abbey at Benediktbeuern

We’d both heard of the Fraunhofer Institute. I didn’t realize Fraunhofer began as an optician and did a lot of research on processing and production of glass for use in telescopes and other instruments. He set up a glass shop here in Benediktbeuern.

 

Sylvie at Fraunhofer's Glashütte, Benediktbeuern

Sylvie at Fraunhofer’s Glashütte, Benediktbeuern

Protective mask for workers in the glass shop. In order to work with free hands, the workers held the mask on with their teeth.

Leather protective mask for workers in the glass shop. In order to work with free hands, the workers held the mask on with their teeth.

Then it was on home, outside Stuttgart.

Coburg / Stuttgart, Germany, October 15, 2015

Yesterday we passed through the Ehrenburg Castle in Coburg. Today we had an interesting hour-long tour through it.

Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

Ceiling in Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

Ceiling in Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

Salon in Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

Salon in Schloss Ehrenburg, Coburg

After a short visit to the gift shop of the Doll Museum and coffee and cake, we got a taxi and left for the 1:40 p.m. train. In the process of changing trains in Nurnberg, I managed to land more or less on my nose as I got off the train. It was pretty embarrassing, I and my two heavy suitcases sprawled on the platform. Fortunately, others helped me up, and we went on our way. After we got on the next train, though, Kaisu was doubled over, laughing.

The plan was to go together as far as Stuttgart, where I would get off and visit my friend Sylvia. Kaisu was to go on back to Zurich / Wädenswil.

When we approached Stuttgart, already a few minutes late, we got the announcement that, due to a medical emergency, the train would stop in Stuttgart, the Deutsche Bahn was very sorry, but there were no connections. Several other trains were stopped there, too. After several minutes of uncertainty, we got off the train, found Sylvia and Kaisu headed for a track marked for Zurich. Sylvia was able to get to a train official to be sure Kaisu’s ticket would work on that route, and she dashed off to find a spot on the train.

Sylvia and I wound our way through the construction zone that’s Stuttgart 21 to take the U-Bahn to her parked car and then on to her house outside Stuttgart.

She used to park near the Planetarium, where she works. The Planetarium used to be on the edge of a beautiful park. However, because of the project to build the new train station, all the trees in the park were chopped down and replaced by a construction site.

Kaisu sent messages later that she had gotten home OK. A large sigh of relief. I’ll see her again at the end of my trip, because her house is a straight shot to the airport.

Coburg, Germany, October 14, 2015

The hotel is right on the market place, and this morning was the market.

The Marktplatz in Coburg

The Marktplatz in Coburg

Painted pumpkins in the Marktplatz, Coburg

Painted pumpkins in the Marktplatz, Coburg

The Marktplatz in Coburg

The Marktplatz in Coburg

 

One of the oldest pharmacies, on the Marktplatz in Coburg

One of the oldest pharmacies, on the Marktplatz in Coburg

This morning we looked around Coburg a little, then went on a walking tour of the old part of town. I found a glass studio that seemed to make fused glass windows plus Vero Vetro, a nice stained glass studio with some really nice fused bowls, as well. We chatted with the owner/artist for a few minutes. Kaisu ended up buying some intersting painted globs.

Stadt Theater in Coburg

Stadt Theater in Coburg

After cake and coffee, we set off by taxi to the Vesta, the fortress on the hill with a selection of Venetian and Venetian-like glass, as well as some more modern pieces. we spent about three hours,with glass and a variety of other exhibits in the buildings that pre-date the US….

Near the Vesta

Near the Vesta

Henkelschale, 2nd half of the 17th century at the Vesta

Henkelschale, 2nd half of the 17th century at the Vesta

Venetian chandelier at the Vesta

Venetian chandelier at the Vesta

 Bowl by Daum, from around 1920, at the Vesta

Bowl by Daum, from around 1920, at the Vesta

Galle, Vase w anemones, around 1900, in the Vesta

Galle, Vase w anemones, around 1900, in the Vesta

Tiffany, bowl, around 1900, in the Vesta

Tiffany, bowl, around 1900, in the Vesta

Vase by Witwe / Peche, around 1920, in the Vesta

Vase by Witwe / Peche, around 1920, in the Vesta

 

European Jaunt – October 11 – 13, 2015

The reason for this trip, if I needed one, is the 20th anniversary of the institute I worked for in Bern, Switzerland, to take place Oct 22-23, 2015. Being too old for long weekends, I set out earlier.

This time the United flight from Tucson left me with 45 minutes to change planes enroute to Dulles airport and then Zurich. I couldn’t take the chance, so I flew from Phoenix, with just one change of plane. Rather than drive and park in Phoenix, I rode up on the shuttle. Rather than take the shuttle at 2:30 a.m., I went up on Oct. 10 and spent the night at the La Quinta hotel near the airport. All went well, except the hotel does NOT have a phone at the airport (or a toll-free number, for that matter). I waited 40 minutes for the hotel shuttle, because the driver had been sent on another errand. At least the 5 a.m. Shuttle, for my 7:20 flight, went well. (Sorry for odd capitalization. I’m trying to streamline and use an iPad. Apple has a worse idea.)

Phoenix is always a pain. United is in an old, small terminal, and getting my bag checked was somewhat chaotic, but it worked. Gate personnel tried to take away my carry-on bag because of lack of space. I insisted, and it turned out there was a lot of space in the overhead bins. I don’t know how the misinformation happened.

The flights were uneventful, my bag was there, I got my train ticket for Zurich airport to Karlsruhe, Germany, in record time and was off to the Zurich main station.

Fountain in underground at Zurich Main Train Station

Fountain in underground at Zurich Main Train Station

There I met my friend Kaisu, who lives in Wädenswil, and we took off for Coburg, Germany. First stop: Hotel The Square. Next stop: Rödental and the Europäisches Museum für Modernes Glas, my second visit and Kaisu’s first.

It’s an impressive little museum, and this time there might have been 10 visitors while we were there, not just two or three, like last year. The big disappointment was that the restaurant next door was closed on Mondays….

It's still a long walk to the museum.

It’s still a long walk to the museum.

A letter to the organization last year suggesting better directions for people not driving brought nothing. Apparently, during the week no buses run to the museum, which is a good half-hour hike. It seemed a lot shorter with a friend, of course.

Udo Zembok, Simultankontrast 2

Udo Zembok, Simultankontrast 2

Libensky + Brychtova, Cube in a Sphere

Libensky + Brychtova, Cube in a Sphere

 

John Zinner, Island Plate

John Zinner, Island Plate

 

Lázló Lukásci, Jewel (dichroic glass laminated + polished)

Lázló Lukásci, Jewel (dichroic glass laminated + polished) 

On the way back to the hotel I found this building with a nice stained glass window in it:

Stained glass window in a store in Coburg

Stained glass window in a store in Coburg 

I’m home now and can select and manipulate the hundreds of photos I took (according to the numbers of the photos.)